Free tool
How big should my chicken coop and run be?
Enter how many hens you plan to keep and roughly what size they are. Get the coop floor space, run area, roost length, nest boxes, feeders and waterers that keep a flock calm and healthy.
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Kit makers often overstate how many hens fit, so compare the floor size on the listing with your number. Big kits don’t always ship to Puerto Rico, Hawaii or Alaska.
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The rules of thumb behind the numbers
| Per hen | Bantam | Standard | Large or heavy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coop floor | 2 sq ft | 4 sq ft | 5 sq ft |
| Run | 6 sq ft | 10 sq ft | 12 sq ft |
| Roost bar | 6 in | 10 in | 12 in |
| Nest boxes | 1 for every 3 to 4 hens, and never fewer than 1 | ||
| Feeders and waterers | 1 of each for every 10 hens, so nobody gets bullied away from food | ||
These are the minimums most extension offices and experienced keepers agree on. More space is always better: crowded flocks pick feathers, fight and get sick more often. If you check the free-range box, the run shrinks to about 60 percent because the birds spend most of the day outside it, but it never drops below a usable size.
Before you build
- Count only the hens. Roosters need the same room, but most backyard setups skip them.
- Height matters less than floor space, but you want to be able to clean it. A walk-in coop saves your back.
- Put roosts higher than nest boxes or the hens will sleep in the boxes and foul the eggs.
- Ventilation up high, drafts down low, and hardware cloth (not chicken wire) on every opening.
- Check your city or HOA rules on flock size and setbacks from property lines before you buy lumber.